The reason I went searching in the slob lands north of Wexford harbour was Ibar. He is known, along with Ailbe of Emly, Declan of Ardmore and Ciaran of Saigir as ‘one of the four most sacred bishops‘ active in Ireland before Patrick arrived.
When reading about Moninna of Killeavy, a Northern Ireland lady in the league of St Brigid, I had come across Ibar’s name. She had studied with him at his centre on Beggerin Island in Wexford and may have been a niece of his. Beggerin was already a noted centre of learning, today few know it and I had a hard time finding it.
According to the Four Masters, Ibar was of a noble family in County Down, hence his connection with Moninna. It is said that his early education took place in a druidic school and it influenced his outlook. When followers of Martin of Tours began to appear in Ireland Ibar travelled to Lérins, that centre of their ‘Desert spirituality’ near what is now known as the French Riviera, to learn more. He may have met Ciarán of Saigir, a fellow student from Ireland, there.
Back home, Ibar settled on Beggerin (no longer an Island). It is said he gave it its name. According to the story, when Ibar eventually met Patrick he was reluctant to accept his leadership as Ibar regarded him as a foreigner. In response Patrick told him, 'You shall not be in Ireland'. Ibar retorted, 'Ireland is the place where I shall be' and he named his island Beg Erin, 'Little Ireland'.
Despite their unique history, Ibar and Beggerin are almost forgotten today. Google maps brought me to the area but became frustratingly vague the closer we approached. I retreated from the coast to check some nearby graveyards with Ibar’s name on them but no one there could help me.
Back on the slob land I noticed a sign for a Nature Reserve and went there. I was fortunate in meeting a man who used to work at the centre and knew what I was talking about. He said he was unable to bring me to the site of Ibar’s monastery as it was in a part of the reserve where local land owners did not welcome visitors. However he showed me the site on Google Earth. So, although within a few hundred metres of it, I could only visit it on the internet!
It is sad to think that a unique fragment from the dawn of Ireland’s modern heritage, in a scenic and nature-rich area, is inaccessible to ordinary people today. Maybe Patrick’s injunction worked. For most people, Ibar may as well not be in Ireland
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